In this page
1.) Sheath setup
3.) Warranty info
4.) User Maintenance
Sure, it makes sense from a business point of view to market one option and tell people why they want it. Another route is to understand people already carry other equipment and weapons and are willing to do a little work setting up their equipment to what works for them. Below are just a few examples as a sampler. These are all very common, easily sourced parts which can be used in different methods other than those shown. Most attachments with .5", 1" or 1.5" hole spacing will be compatible. A trend the past few years has been spring steel clips. There are a few things to be aware aware of with them. First, they are a rigid snag point. Depending on the manufacturer, or which clip you happen to get, they often wear through fabric and threads on belts, clothes, gear. In some climates, they will rust which will stain fabric. They do work, try 'em if you'd like.
If a knife or sheath needs fixing, email! Asking for advice on some unofficial forum or page to people who don't know is likely a waste of time and brainwaves.
-Watson Knives' shop does not offer any work or modification on any knife not made by this shop and sold under the Watson Knives brand.
-Watson Knives does not alter any Watson knife from its original as-new configuration. This includes changing handle materials, handle types, finishes, grinds, single or double edge conversions, etc. Anything repaired under warranty or fee will be repaired with the same or like materials, color and shape as closely as possible.
-Some natural materials (leather, wood, bone, antler are a few examples) may change over time and can be repaired for a fee. As these are natural materials, no two pieces are identical so the appearance may end up somewhat different if replacement is called for.
-Buy a modified Watson knife at your own risk. If in doubt as to original condition, email us and question the seller before you buy.
-A repair estimate may be given via email but not concrete until it arrives at the shop- sometimes what a picture appears to be and what's going down in real life are very different things.
-You will need to send in your Watson knife to fit an additional or replacement sheath. There is no "master pattern". Each knife is handmade one at a time and there's a myriad of different steel thicknesses, handles, grind types and so forth floating around. But the bright side is that these sheaths aren't low quality or sloppy fitting in part because each one is individually fitted and tested to your actual knife.
Watson knives are made for a lifetime of constant service. Our team carries our knives all day every day. They have been to war zones, to expeditions in inclement weather, hard training and everywhere else we go in our day to day lives. All but the art & kitchen knives are made with the rigors of military life in mind. As such, we guarantee the knife against defects for life. Anything found to be defective will be fixed on our dime. This warranty does not cover abuse such as using the knife as a breaching tool or multi-tool. It does not cover end user modifications, or natural materials such as wood, bone or leather which can change over time. However, even if that's the case, we will still work with you to fix it. Honesty is the only policy around here and we still believe in a man's word and a handshake.
If your sheath needs retention adjustment or your edge needs re-sharpening, just cover the return shipping and we'll make getting your knife back our priority.
User Maintenance: Maintaining your own equipment is your own responsibility. Knives and kydex sheaths can be cleaned with soap and water, alcohol or mild cleaners like Simple Green. DO NOT use bore solvent or brake cleaner. Knife and sheath should be dried before storing in the sheath. A thin coat of gun oil (your choice) is a wise call to inhibit rust and stains, especially in corrosive environments. For knives used on food, mineral or canola oil can be used.
Silicone based products or WD40 are NOT recommended as they can trap moisture in place, causing rust and will also "gum up".
Screws: Use 1 drop blue color (blue does not mean red) Loctite on all screws. Medium-firm finger tightening ONLY, if you muscle it like a lug nut on your 4x4, you'll certainly break something.
Stainless steel: Keep dry, clean and if necessary use a light coat of oil for humid or saltwater environments.
Carbon steel: Keep dry, store with a light coating of oil, Rennessaince wax or pure Carnuba wax.
Sharpening: Joe doesn't recommend any power tools whatsoever. He suggests folks learn freehand sharpening for the simple fact that you'll be able to sharpen anything with anything you have. There are a variety of great tutorials on the internet today. Ceramic stones (Spyderco makes many good ones) are nice for general touchups, and diamond stones (DMT or Smith's brand) when more aggressive material removal is required due to damage or neglect. It is always wise to use the least aggressive method possible to prolong the life of your blade. Leather, denim, or cardboard strops, used plain or loaded with buffing compound, can be a nice final step. No suggestions for elaborate guided sharpening systems, use em if you want. We want tools that are easy to carry in the field and can easily be substituted with other items when one does not have the one of choice. When buying sharpening tools- look for durable, free of complicated parts that will get lost, can it sharpen tapered blades, blades that have no flat area to clamp, curved blades, axes, scissors, shears, chisels and other tools. You may find it helpful to read the book "The Razor's Edge book of sharpening" and be willing to practice to learn a new skill.
Sharpening Titanium: DO NOT use abrasives on the carbidized side of titanium knives- you will likely go through the carbide. Use diamond stones on the non carbide side, then use the strop as normal on both sides. Cutting through cardboard can also be used with great effect to remove any burrs on the titanium.
Kydex sheaths: Clean with soap, water or alcohol as needed. NEVER attempt to adjust retention on the sheath by bending, taking pliers to it or heating it. If you do kydex for a living, then you can fix it. If not, send it in instead of attempting a DIY.
Leather sheaths: Brush off all dirt then wipe with a slightly damp cloth only, no further treatment is required.
For all other maintenance questions, email firstname.lastname@example.org